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My take on the "$50 Greenhouse." Construction cost: <$150. |
With fall rapidly approaching and our FnL project underway, I've decided to build a greenhouse so I can stay motivated and growing over the winter months.
I want to thank David LaFerney at The Door Garden for his great post which inspired me to undertake this project. I modified his design based on the noted weaknesses of his original concept to arrive at a design that is more robust, although the process of construction was very similar.
Planning
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My initial design. The final was slightly modified. |
My original footprint was 7'x10', but after a visit to an organic farm in Boulder, where I got to see a large (16' x36' I'd wager) aluminum-framed greenhouse full of beautiful vegetables, I followed the owner's advice to build mine "as big as you can," and so extended it as far as I easily could, arriving at 7'x16'.
This design is relatively easy to construct as it is very modular and can be streamlined further using "assembly line" methods. More on this later...
Material List
While I wanted to complete this project using as many reclaimed resources as possible, I none the less found myself at Home Depot more than once out of convince. The "$50 Greenhouse" is kind of a joke... the Door Garden one totaled ~$150. I will total everything up here when the project is finished, already I think I'm at just under $150. It's not the big materials but the small stuff that gets ya! Here are the materials I used:- 10' 3/4" PVC pipe (18 for 9 total ribs)
- 120º PVC connectors (9)
- PVC Cement
- 1 qt, matte-white exterior latex paint
- 8'-10' 2x4's (about 15 pieces)
- 2' 3/4" rebar (15)
- 4' "Tree support pickets" (6) - I'll find out what these are really called...
- 10' 1x1's (10)
- 4"x8" vents (2) – Not sure if these will be useful, they look nice though!
- 2 1/2" Exterior sheeting screws
- 1 1/2" Exterior sheeting screws
- Bailing wire
- Utility knife (box cutter)
- 6 mil Clear plastic sheeting (more on this later)
- Circular saw
- Cordless drill
- 3/32 Drill bit
- Staple gun
- Sledge hammer
- Pliers / wire cutters
- Tape measurer / speed square
- Bubble level
- Helper piggy (no, you can't borrow mine)
Build that sucker
I began by cutting (3) 2x4's to the width of my design's footprint (7'). Next I constructed the 'ribs' that attach to them. I cut PVC pipe into 7.5' sections and joined pairs together with 120º connector segments and PVC cement.
To connect the ribs to the 2x4, drill a small hole through the PVC at the bottom of one of the corners and fasten with a 2 1/2" screw. Then flex the rib by bringing the other end down and drilling/fastening the other bottom corner. With the pvc now in this nice shape, you can drill and fasten another screw on each side.
Next I constructed the uprights that brace the pvc and create the doorways. I measured 2' in on each side and laid 2x4's on these centers flush against the bottom beam. I traced the curve of the pvc pipe where it intersected the 2x4 and cut the approximate straight angle. (Err on the long side for your first cut. You can always make something shorter but you can't make it longer again!) You could use a reciprocating hand saw to cut a curve, but a straight cut will get you close enough.
Once you have done this once and have an upright that fits nicely, you can use this piece as a template and to cut the remaining 5 uprights. Attache the uprights to the base boards and connect to them to the pvc by drilling holes and driving screws. The screws will probably have to go in at two different angles so as not to punch through where the angles converge.
The two end sections were supported with horizontal cross members because I originally planned to have doors at both ends. I later opted for one door for simplicity's sake. The central section had an angled design for more headroom inside the greenhouse. If this is too fancy for you another horizontal beam would work fine. However, after I built this center section it made me wish I had built both end sections the same way as it is much stronger and prettier and you can literally do chin-ups from the frame above.
With these three sections built it was on to the plastic sheeting!
I know better than to use non UV-treated plastic, but I tried several local suppliers for green house plastic and some of the prices I got back were "prohibitive" to say the least, as much as $3.25/sq ft with the smallest order being 100 sq ft! There are suppliers online, but as I am impatient and want to finish this this weekend, I swallowed my better judgment and bought the non UV-treated 6 mil sheeting from home depot. I'll see how it goes...
Regrettably I did not take photos of the plastic sheeting procedure as my wife and I were battling breezes, but I followed the method that David used, basically wrapping the ends like big christmas presents, pulling the excess back and stapling it behind, then cutting off the remaining material.
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This shot is from later in the process but shows both the horizontal frame piece and the plastic wrapped and stapled behind the end section. You can also see how the vent is attached. |
Supports
You can see two of the supports in the photo above, after carefully measuring I pounded the pickets in where the door frames were.
Then I dug a small trench where the bottom frame piece would lay.
I laid the section in the trench and filled in with dirt underneath the beam until it was level, then filled the surrounding space. I think this will give the sections a bit more stability and it lowered the floor beam for a nice step over height. I affixed the doorways to the posts with bailing wire. You can see the wire in the following pics.
With the three support sections installed it's time for rebar. I used a string to make a straight line between the support sections, then measured the distance (three ribs between each support) and pounded 2 ft rebar into the ground until 4-5 inches remained.
Then I cut and assembled the remaining ribs and slid each end onto the protruding rebar.
Finally starting to look like a green house! I adjusted each rib on either side to make sure the heights were the same and that the central spine was fairly straight. For some this meant digging down around the rebar to slide the pipe further down, others needed to be propped up with piled dirt.
Brace Yourself
Next I installed the braces between the ribs. I just used 2x2's mounted with screws from the inside. I connected the brace beams to the support members at the 2x4's rather than the PVC for added support.
Top and bottom!
I could have done this earlier, but I decided to add a central beam down the center of the roof to help prevent snow and water accumulation. I cut scrap PVC to length and joined them with straight connectors, then used tiewraps to attach the pole at each 120º connector at the apex.
And voila!
Next I will be filling the inside with compost and mulch and attaching a door. I will post more pics when this is completed!
~r
I left the bottom braces short on the ends because I had no place to attach them to the doors (on account of my wrap job). I regret this (I'm a perfectionist) but structurally it should be more than ok.
Take Cover
Next, covering the frame. I'm using 20ft sheeting, so I used this dimension for the width of the house, and cut ~17" for the dimension that goes over the top. I used a piece of plywood, a speed square and a scrap 2x2 to ensure a nice straight cut. Since this small cut will unfold to be a 20ft edge, the straighter the better!
Then I folded and stapled 2x2 sections into each side to weight and straighten the covering.I pulled the covering over the house and pulled it taut on both sides. At each end, I cut a slit about 4 inches from the peak of the roof, then cut off the excess following the curve of the house, leaving enough to fold over and attach.
Finally, I used a combination of staples and clear duct tape to shape and attach the excess sheeting to the sides.I could have done this earlier, but I decided to add a central beam down the center of the roof to help prevent snow and water accumulation. I cut scrap PVC to length and joined them with straight connectors, then used tiewraps to attach the pole at each 120º connector at the apex.
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Who is Jim Eagle? |
Next I will be filling the inside with compost and mulch and attaching a door. I will post more pics when this is completed!
~r